Rajasthan Part 8: Jaislmer

Leaving Jodhpur, we raced further into the Thar Desert.  On the Western most corner of Rajasthan lies an oasis, Jaislmer.  Approaching city limits the first thing you see is miles and miles of military compound.  We were roughly 50 kilometers from the Pakistan border.  Rumor has it this area was littered with dozens of tank Battalions and Air Force fighter wings.  Just before reaching the city walls our driver took a hard left and headed South.  Before entering the city, his plan was for us to spend a night in the real desert.  Our destination, the tiny village of Khuri.  I guess expressing our interest once in villages, turned into multiple village excursions.  This time it was for a camel safari.  

Originally we planned to ride camels out into the desert, bringing a camel entourage in order to spend the night sleeping in the dunes.  As we arrived it was obvious sand storms were kicking up in the distance.  So we opted for a short sunset ride about thirty minutes out of town.

Gretchen and I agreed, despite the uniqueness of the experience, camels were one of the most painful methods of travel in our entire life.  I would have rather walked across the broiling, baking, sandy desert then ride that stupid camel.  I actually had scars on my butt for weeks, months afterward.  The saddle is leather as hard as a rock.  The driver actually shares the saddle sitting behind you.  All you have to do is hold on, which is much harder then it sounds.  Through a series of clicks, burps, and commands the driver brings the camel up from a gallop to an all out sprint through shifting sand.  

Despite this serene photograph, Grechen actually got spit on by her camel.  Much like the Disney Aladdin cartoons, they do spit, and they are mean.  My camel seemed like he should have stayed in bed, acting severly sick.  At one point he vomited, then tried to bite me.  Watching them sit down and stand up is actually kind of fun.  First the front of the animal drops suddenly forward as you feel liking being thrown over the handlebars.  Then the rear end flops down.  After which my camel tried to roll over squishing me underneath.  I had to launch myself off in the opposite direction.  Then was to afraid I would be attacked to go back and grab my water bottle.  Luckily an hour later he seemed more relaxed and allowed me to easily mount up for our ride back home.

Yet it was still an amazing experience.  We rode out into the dunes.  Sat and watched the sunset for about an hour, then had an amazing dinner back at camp.  Along the way we stopped near two watering holes.  The first was a pit stop for animals.  My camel shared the trough with cows, dogs, and chickens.  There were even peacocks circling the area.  Then we passed the village watering hole.  It reminded me of images I’ve seen in National Geographic.  Women gathered, filled watering pots, then carried them home stacked upon their head.  Before arriving back at camp the storm really picked up.  Pelting us with sand.  It felt like a thousand needles hitting your face.  The drivers raced the camels into the fenced stables as we quickly dismounted.  The customary 100 rupee tip was handed over to the driver before heading in for a King Fisher.

We stayed at the Krisna Desert Resort.  The manager gave us a choice of the villas above or the thatched cottages below.

Jaislmer, like several other Raj fortresses turned into cities, was built upon the nearest rocky outcropping.  As invaders tended to come in all directions five hundred years ago, palaces served a multitude of purposes and defenses.  Jaislmer was originally an outpost for traders traveling East and West across the sub-continent and eventually up into the Middle East then Europe.  

Just outside the palace entrance, but within the city walls- handprints, evidence of wives committing sati after the death of their beloved king.  This now banished practice was depicted on the walls of nearly every palace we visited by the red handprints.  

Traditionally only higher class were allowed to live in the fortress walls.  Most of the nicest havelis (houses) belonged to the Brahman Caste.  These were decorated with intricate stone carvings and lattice work.  

Today the castle is still made of tightly woven streets around traditional looking housing.  Some curios and trinket shops are open on the ground floors, but it still feels like a living city, as it may have hundreds of years ago.  Outside the city walls it is a bustling 21st century reminder of emerging India.  Tourist shops, large restaurants, night clubs, and amid modern apartments line overcrowded streets.  Despite the hot arid desert climate, cows still wander the city streets.

More Havelis.

Evening lights brought cooler temperatures.  We found some high ground on the castle ramparts to enjoy the a chilly breeze while taking in the sights and sounds of Jaislmer.