Friday, July 1, 2011

India Road Show Kickoff

After one full day in Delhi we were ready to get out and see the country.  Our driver picked us up early and we headed South.  First passing out of the city into the province of Haryana, then crossing the border into Uttar Pradesh.  Despite spending almost two months in India, I haven't quite figured out what sort of autonomy, rights, and power the states have in line with the federal government.  Fact: India is the largest democracy in the world.  I say this because crossing borders was a big deal.  We were required to stop.  All drivers are required to stop and turn over proper documentation along with paying a small fee.  In some cases it appeared cargo trucks were stopped for hours getting proper registration.  

Just North of Agra we stopped at Sikandra, site of Akbar the Great's mausoleum.  Akbar was one of the great muslim rulers unifying large parts of Northern and Western India in the 16th century.  We would end up visiting a couple sites associated with his rule, this being the first. 

Gretchen stands in front of the great gate, the main entrance into the tomb complex.
Mughal architecture was very symmetrical, and very geometric.  All the tombs, forts, and palaces were laid out in grids or patterns of four.  They would also use multiples of that number in domes or peaks along roofs. 
An interesting wild deer within the outer walls.
Feeding the wildlife.
All four cardinal directions had mosque style shrines like the one above.  The mausoleum lay in the center. The symmetry was beautiful, as you can see in the repeating arches behind me in the photo below.

More repeating arches.
The white marble and red rock were gorgeous color contrasts.  It was hard to believe this shrine was over 400 years old.  I've visited Civil War cemeteries less than 200 years old in much worse condition.
Gutters ran down the middle of most walkways to channel off heavy monsoon rains in the summer. Having these channels or pools of water also served as an air conditioning systems in some places.
Gretchen walking out of the inner tomb.
More amazing stone lattice.  Two men guarding shoes.
The main entrance gate, looking from the inside.
It was really hot here, probably the hottest we had been the first couple weeks.  The temperature was well over 100 degrees with extremely high humidity.
After a hot afternoon walking around Sikandra it was good to reach Agra.  We checked into our hotel, and enjoyed the air conditioning.  Later we went out to see the Taj Mahal.

On our way out of town we stopped by the Agra Fort.  I liked this fort better then the Red Fort in Old Delhi.  The fort here was a little less crowded and allowed more freedom to wander.  Visitors can only see a small portion of this fort as large sections are still in use by India's military.


The major fortifications of this complex were laid upon pre-existing earthworks by Akbar the Great around 1565.  The fort spans a nice hillside overlooking the Yamuna River and the bustling city of Agra.
I was pleased to see this two story library.  Its amazing to think about books and what knowledge they might have had back then.  Akbar was an advocate for books, later we saw more bookshelves at his other palace Fatehpur Sikri.


Similar marble to what was used in the Taj, part of his inner chambers.
Golden ceilings, it must have looked amazing 400 years ago.

The Taj Mahal visible in the distance down the Yamuna River.

After leaving Agra we began our journey into Rajasthan, but just before crossing the border into another state we made a stop at Fatehpur Sikri.  This palace was built upon a small ridge deep in the jungles around 1569.  It would serve as Akbar's capital seat until 1585.  Nestled in the country side it was much quieter then Agra, now, and 400 years ago.


Again, the Mughal style of architecture was everywhere.  Notice the symmetrical domes in the background and repeating arches in the foreground.  The area in the foreground that looks like stables was actually his female servant quarters.  Stone rungs were still carved into the ceiling for hanging silk curtains separating each of these apartments.
Looking out over the countryside right along the border of Uttar Pradesh and Eastern Rajasthan.


Wild monkeys everywhere, a common sight in most of India.

More bookshelves.  This office or study style room was elevated above the main courtyard allowing nice breezes to blow through during hot muggy summer days.

This building was his main reception hall.  Inside intricate stone carvings decorated everything.  The ceiling had a cathedral like feeling, with stone supports covered in repeating designs.
Finally, a watchtower overlooking the scrub land.  Despite being one of the great Mughal emperors, Akbar still had enemies.

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