Saturday, October 29, 2011

Saturday Ride


Saturday morning we awoke to crystal blue skies and crisp cold weather.  Overnight lows dropped to -10.  Noonday sunshine brought the temperature to about 0.  I decided to warm up my “snow-go” and check out how the winter trails were shaping up.  Locals have been setting wood trails with snow machines for about three weeks now.  I found no one has ridden on the river or large bodies of water yet, but frozen boggy areas and the tundra are filling in nicely with snow.
At $10 a gallon, throttle therapy can be a pricey affair.  Weather forecasts are calling for more snow this week, and within a few weeks the large lakes should be solid all the way across.  Rumor has it Caribou are within sight of the village, but I didn’t see any signs of the herd.

More Skiing with the Kids

We have been busy! I went skiing almost every day last week.  The kids love taking turns ski jouring with Jack.


Sam took some of this video while following us on the snow machine and I took some of it while skiing alongside the kids.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Skiing with the Kids

Arctic Village Ski Team
Conditions have been fantastic to get out and ski in Arctic this fall.  I dug out a bunch of skis, found boots that fit the bindings on the skis and now we are ready to go.

 And they're off! The kids ski without poles because we don't have any, but actually it has really helped them develop great balance. They all remembered what they learned last year and our first two days out went really well.

As we get spread out, I look around to see how everyone is doing.

I am trying to explain to the kids that we need to spread out so that we can herringbone up the hill.  
We were all sliding backwards as a group!

On the road the snow is packed by snow machines, but as soon as you get off the road you are all on your own!

Jack pulled me with two kids in tow!  

We rigged up another harness so that Caesar could pull too. 
He did pretty well as long as he had Jack to chase.

More to follow......

Saturday, October 8, 2011

From Fall to Winter - Anaktuvuk Pass

Recently, I got to spend a few days in Anaktuvuk Pass for work.  The flight up to AKP was like jumping straight from fall to winter.  We left Fairbanks, full of fall colors.....

And flew into snow covered peaks....


After a busy day of visits, we enjoyed an amazing sunset.  It was the kind of view that makes you take a deep breath and stand in awe.


The snow only comes half way down the mountains now, but by the time I go back in a few months I'm sure it will be on the ground!

A lot of people ask, "how can you fly in small planes all the time?"  My response is that you are more likely to die in a car wreck than a small plane, and I would rather be in a plane because I get to see this..


I left the sound on the video, so that you can get the full effect of what it is like riding around in a grand caravan over the Brooks Range.  I did speed up the video a little though, Caravans don't fly that fast!

Monday, September 12, 2011

Castner Glacier Hike

Thanks to the Yukon Flats School District bringing us into town for an inservice- we were able to take off for the weekend on a hike.  So Saturday morning we raced down the Richardson Highway with the Fall colors in full bloom and sprinkling rain showers.  Our destination, the Delta Mountains of the Eastern Alaska Range.  This is an area I really haven't explored at all, except from the drivers seat racing down the highway at 70mph coming or going between Anchorage and Fairbanks...

The Castner Glacier is easily accessible from the highway just South of the Black Rapids camp.  Within a mile of the truck we were upon this expansive chunk of ice nearly totally covered in rock, scree, mud, and a mix of tundra like vegetation.  

Enjoy the video!


Monday, September 5, 2011

Anniversary Hike

Happy Labor Day weekend everyone!  And for us, Happy 6th Anniversary.  We celebrated the occasion with another great hike from the village.  I have never lived so close to the backcountry before.  It's amazing to literally walk out your back door and into the woods.  There are no cars, no parking lots, no entrance fees, and most importantly, no holiday weekend crowds.

This trip originally began as a traverse of the Phillip Smith Mountains, summiting Misty Mountain and ending up in the Junjik  River valley.  After a late start Saturday morning and limited capacity for two people in one packraft, plans changed.  I was inspired by Roman Dials trips with his wife sharing a packraft together.  After two minutes in our boat we quickly realized Roman and his wife must be a tad shorter then us...  The hike would have been about 30 miles hiking across one pass and 45 miles floating two rivers.  Upon reaching the far shore of the Chandalar River we quickly set our sights upon the craggy Under Cloud Mountain.  This peak has tempted me for the last year.  A spectacular rocky spine runs all the way up to the summit from the valley floor.  There are several approachable routes from the South and West via steep tundra slopes.  As we climbed the rain gradually turned to mist, eventually clearing for an awesome view of the Chandalar Valley from the summit.  We followed another ridge due West for at least another two miles before dropping into an adjacent valley for the night.  After sliding down a heinous scree chute we wound up in a peaceful meadow camp site.  We quickly pitched our tent and retreated from the rain.  Sunday morning greeted us with thick cloud cover, so we made the decision not to attempt any more nearby peaks, and began the slog back to the village.

In total we hiked 13 miles Saturday, and 10 miles Sunday.  On Saturday we traveled about 3/4 of a mile in the packraft, "ferrying" across the river.  Then Sunday we traveled almost 2.5 miles in the packraft, launching from up river of the village.

Check out the video of our adventure.


Monday, August 29, 2011

Paddle Mountain

Despite having lived in Arctic Village, my jaunts into the countryside have been limited.  Being overwhelmed as a first year teacher, I restricted travel to only a couple hours, usually just taking short hikes or ski excursions in close proximity to the school.  So Saturday when I was invited to climb one of the nearby peaks I jumped at the opportunity.

For the last two months three photographers from New York have been working in Arctic Village.  They came from a college on a grant to study, record, and capture the story of the Gwich'in people.  Through video interviews and photographs this professor and two students hopes to capture the essence of what its like to live North of the Arctic Circle.  As the professor briefly explained to me, its part of a life long project he's called "Polar Souls".  He's fascinated by communities living in such remote, sometimes inhospitable locations in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.


Sunday morning we shoved off the shore of the Chandalar River in two inflatible kayaks.   Our group of four paddled about 1.25 miles downriver.  We began our hike on the far shore.  The first and last three miles of the hike would become some of the hardest hiking I've ever done.  Forget steep inclines or hiking at elevation, crossing tundra tussocks was exhausting.   Totally draining the energy out of every muscle as you not only use legs, but core strength to balance on these floating islands of grass.  It was like walking on marbles.  And forget stepping inbetween the grass domes, some gaps were shallow, while others caused you to sink knee deep in freezing water or muck.


Our climb began on the slopes of Paddle Mountain.  We navigated towards a narrow ridge, eventually rising above scrub line and flanking around the main scree covered slopes of the massive mountain just west of Arctic Village.  Topping out at 4750ft, the vista provided new views North and West deep into the foot hills and larger peaks of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR).










We arrived back to the school boat ramp almost 12 hours after we had left.  The total hike covered 9.5 miles, and the total paddle was 2.5 miles.  Linda, our school Special Education greeted us with warm stew (thanks Linda)!
After an amazing day in the wilderness, we were blessed with a spectacular sunset.

Friday, August 26, 2011

New Blog Title

I've been thinking a lot lately about changing the title of this blog.  With much regret I just think its time to retire it.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Back to Arctic

After a three month exodus, we returned last Saturday to Arctic Village.  Unlike last year we knew what we were getting ourselves into.  The pilot remembered our names and wanted to hear all about our Summer adventures.  As our Cessna rose out of Fairbanks into thick cloud cover I began to reminisce on what I had left three months before.  Suddenly the clouds cleared and the vast tundra began to look familiar below us.  The mighty Yukon River marking the halfway point.  Numerous ponds growing smaller as the flats turned to rolling hills and finally the splendid Brooks Range loomed in the distance.  

As we landed in Arctic Village many familiar faces greeted us at the airport.  I was a bit surprised at first not to see a larger greeting party, but discovered many families were "up mountain" hunting or in Fairbanks for the State Fair.  The village looked the same, but much greener then when we left.  Arctic Village has received an unusual amount of rain this Summer.  Our friend and colleague Linda picked us up from the airport in the school truck.  I hopped in back with the luggage.  Jack and I proudly waving to passersby in chariot like style.
Unlike last year, we didn't start the year with Science Camp.  Instead the Council of Athabascan Tribal Governments (CATG) had an annual meeting all week.  The gathering brought in Elders and Chiefs from all the surrounding villages- Venetie, Fort Yukon, Beaver, Stevens, and the big village of Fairbanks.  The event provided a forum for a series of discussions on everything from subsistence hunting to alcohol and drug abuse, as well as preserving oral history and caring for elders.  I took my students to attend several of the meetings.  The week concluded with a youth specific talking circle in which all my students expressed their concerns and shared ideas with the council about the future.
 Due to the hectic nature of having so many out of town guests in Arctic, we decided to take our students on a hike today.  To the East of the village is Dachunlee', a sacred mountain where many families set up hunting camps in the Fall.  I was so proud of everyone, even the First and Second graders walked almost all the way up the mountain.  We ate lunch and toured several of the hunting camps.  While the older students and I climbed to the upper ridge, Gretchen remained in camp with the younger students pulling squirrels from traps and cleaning them to eat.
In total we hiked 10 miles under gorgeous blue skies.  For some kids heading out to hunting camps is a common occurrence, for others this is a special treat as they usually get left in the village.  One student was ecstatic about the hike, saying it was only the third time in his life he had climbed this luminous hill overlooking the village.  He couldn't remember the last time his Uncle had taken him to hunting camp, but he knew it was when he was much smaller.
I feel like the year is off to a good start for me.  My classroom feels much more setup then it was this time last year.  As a second year teacher I'm overflowing with ideas to integrate into my lesson plans. Monday really marks the first full day of classes at the start of a full week of school.  I have a feeling with dozens of charter flights leaving the village today, it will seem empty this weekend.  With most of the out of town guests departed I'm really praying the focus becomes getting kids enrolled into school and kicking off the academic year.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Teacher Housing

Gretchen and I arrived to Arctic Village not really sure where we would be living, but hoping for district housing.  Thanks to the gracious help of my coworker Linda and generous new Principal, this was possible.  After one night sleeping in our old cabin, we moved into teacher housing.

 Teacher housing is located in old school building, directly across from the current school building.

This is the back porch which has some spectacular views overlooking the Chandalar River.

 Views off the back porch at sunset.



 Gretchen and Jack settling into our living room.

 Jack has a nice comfy bed in each room.

 Jack loves the new apartment so much he wanted to be in each photo.

Teacher housing is fully loaded with indoor plumbing and running water.  We also have gas heat which will be really nice in the upcoming winter.

 The master bedroom.

Jack is very comfortable in his new quarters!