Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Sunset, last night

We had the most AMAZING sunset last night.
We stepped out our door and stood behind our cabin to take these pictures.
This was about 10:30pm



The dominant ridge due west of Arctic Village is the Dhahedse Ridge, its the eastern flank of Paddle Mountain.

Potlatch: No Place for Vegetarians

A "potlatch" is a generic native Alaskan word used through out the state. It defines a gathering inviting all from the village, and usually all visiting the village. They are held to celebrate life & death, as well as other holidays or seasons. Arctic Village lost another Elder last week, the third this Summer. In response nearly every meal has been shared at either the Widow's house or the Brother of the deceased's house. Meals are made by several women of the village, in a potlock fashion everyone brings something.
It was a gorgeous evening in Arctic Village. The Brooks Range was illuminated with an alpenglow spotlight all evening. After dinner the Rev. Trimble and a visiting minister from Venetie grabbed acoustic guitars. They sang gospel songs for a while on the front porch. I would have stayed until conclusion, but I had already committed to the kids I would open the school gym for basketball night.
Arctic Village is turning me into a heavy carnivore. My plate here is loaded with Moose and Caribou, all killed locally, some killed yesterday.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Polar Bear in Arctic Village

There have been sightings of a polar bear in the area the past few days. People flying over the area have kept the village updated on the location of the bear and today it was sighted at the dump just outside of town! Fish and Game have been flying over all evening in a helicopter. We are not sure if they will try to capture and relocate it or if they will have to kill it. We had planned to make a dump run today...but I guess that will have to wait. Having a polar bear in Arctic Village is very unusual. We are on the South side of the Brooks Range. There are miles and miles of mountains separating us from the coast. Pretty crazy stuff! ~Gretchen

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Tentative Schedule

Tomorrow is the first day of schedule. As per tradition, the first three days of school in Arctic Village School are devoted to "Science Camp". I don't know how long this camp has been running, but its dedicated to a women whom passed away a couple years ago.

The nice part of Science Camp is it gives the teachers a break at the start of the school year. The camp is run by village Elders, and several experts that have flown (and packrafted) in from various agencies throughout Alaska.

Here is my schedule for the year

830-1000 Language Arts (MS, 5-8)

1000-1105 Math (MS, 5-8)

1105-1135 Math/PE (MS, 5-8) (Math T/Th, PE M/W/F)

1135-1215 Lunch

1215-1235 Gwich ‘in Studies (taught by Grandma Lillian)

1235-125 Writing & Art (MS, 5-8)

125-230 English (HS, 9-12)

230-330 PE (HS, 9-12)

Teaching middle school math was a compromise. I was originally hired to teach social studies and language arts. I've split math duties with my principal, he's teaching high school math and social studies. I'm very excited about teaching English/Language Arts. It will also be fun running the PE program, maybe i'll put them in an extended rectangle formation first thing!

What A Friend We Have in Jesus - Our first Service at the Arctic Village Church

As we walked into church this morning the congregation was singing "What a Friend We Have in Jesus" in Gwich'in. I couldn't understand any of the words, but I knew the tune. It spoke to my heart to hear that familiar tune in their language. With many tongues, but one voice we worship the same God. They also sang "Just As I Am" in Gwich'in and "Amazing Grace" in English. The church here in Arctic Village is Episcopalian and the chapel where we meet is a cozy one room building with pews and an alter.
The Reverend Trimble Gilbert gave a sermon on the Gospel story of how the shepherd searched for the one lost sheep even though he had one hundred. Trimble told a story that his mother had told him from when the Gwich'in people were still nomadic. They would only stop in one place when they had a lot of food, then they would move on again. There was a time when the people were very hungry and food was hard to find and a baby crawled off in search of berries. The people looked for days and days; for two weeks and could not find the baby. The whole village was distraught and shared in mourning for their loss. As Arctic Village now shares in mourning the loss of one of their own who was electrocuted in a terrible accident working on the electric lines. The next month when the people traveled to a new place looking for food, the baby came crawling up, still following the berry bushes! It was a miracle that seemed impossible, but the baby was alive! The people then shared in rejoicing for the lost baby that was now found. Trimble stressed that in the village community we share in mourning and rejoicing, and it is always worth caring for the one who is lost, the one who needs our help, the one who is without. I have read the story of the lost sheep before and studied it, but never within the context of a native community that is so close-knit as this. It really gives the idea of community a whole new value. ~Gretchen

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Flying Out of Arctic Village

View of the White Mountains, North of Fairbanks

On my first flight out of Arctic Village, back to Fairbanks for work, it was just the pilot, Jack and me on the plane. I got to sit co-pilot and had a great conversation with the pilot the whole way into Fairbanks. It was a beautiful sunny day and we had great views!
Another view of the White Mountains
Coming in to the Fairbanks Airport
Approaching the runway at the Fairbanks Airport
It was 93 degrees the day I landed in Fairbanks!
Jack chillin' out with the AC on at the Super8. I brought Jack into Fairbanks with me because we weren't ready to leave him with anyone else yet and Sam was also traveling this week. Thankfully I found a pet friendly room and Jack seemed to enjoy the week in Fairbanks. For a dog who does not like to travel he sure is racking up the frequent flyer miles! He actually has done really well with all the travel. As long as he has his crate he can be happy anywhere.

While in Fairbanks I got to visit some of our friends that we made through the Army, Levi, Shannon and their daughters. It is so nice to be able to stop by their place each time we come into town. I also got a chance to meet Sam's second cousin Carol's college friends Lynn and Ric who live in Fairbanks. That may seem like a pretty remote connection, but it was great to meet them and get to know more people in Fairbanks. Now I am back in AV helping Sam get ready for school to start on Monday. Stay posted for more to follow... ~Gretchen

Friday, August 20, 2010

Arctic Village: Old Town & the School

I think Upper Cloud Mountain is becoming one of my local favorites.
This view is taken from "Old Town", essentially one of the older portions of the village on a peninsula sticking into Chandalar River.
The Arctic Village School, looking south. The water at the bottom of the frame is not the East Fork of the Chandalar River, but a small tributary. There are several fingers and ponds in close proximity to the main channel of the river.
The town boat ramp. The river is more of a highway than fishery. Some fish are caught here, but mostly fed to the dogs. Last week a local took his boat upstream and killed a moose. The village of Venetie is about 80 miles downstream.
This is the original village church. Like a lot of the interior Athabascan region, Arctic Village was originally settled by Episcopalian missionaries- unlike the coastal regions that are primarily Russian Orthodoxy. This church is no longer used for services. Gretchen and I have not been inside yet, but were invited to do so by Franklin, a local that renovated the church. Apparently there is very ornate bead work done by several of the local women.
Here is the village post office.
Arctic Village School seen from the bridge crossing a small tributary pond to the river.

This is the village washeteria. Since our village has no running water services locals can do laundry or take showers here. It costs $5 for a shower and $4 for a load of laundry. Gretchen and I are free to use the schools facilities since I'm employed with the district. One of the many perks working in the school is running water, making positions in the school very sought after.


The front door of the school.

Tour of Arctic Village School

Its about time to show you around my new school. This is a shot of Arctic Village School from the south looking north. As in most villages the school is the largest building. Our school stands out with a nice red roof.

The mountains are the southern most foot hills of the Brooks Range, also the boundary of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR).

I'm beginning to learn the names of the peaks around our village, at least the english names, the Gwich' in I'm still working on.

The rocky jagged peak to lookers right is called Upper Cloud Mountain.

The new Arctic Village School has only been open for one full school year. It was completed in 2008/2009. The old school was converted into two apartments for teacher housing.
The focal point for all village kids is the gym. Ours is not quite a full size gym. It also serves as the multi purpose room and cafeteria.

This is the math and science classroom. I might share this room to teach middle school math.
This is the social studies/english classroom. The previous english teacher must have had a limitless credit card for books. The shelves are covered with a wide variety of books from middle school level all the way to collegiate. Considering my average high school student has an elementary reading level it may be heard to get them through Candide by Voltaire or The Metamorphis by Kafka- but I will save that for a later post.
My favorite part of the school is this room in the center. It divides the middle/high school portions from the elementary/library part of the building. Based off Athabascan architecture, with photographs of the village Elders hanging around mid-ceiling.
Benches and unique lighting invite students to linger and contemplate the culture in which they descend from.
As I said, I'm still learning my Gwich' in so I don't know what this means yet.

The elementary school room, still being setup after summer school trashed it.
The Library also serves as a sort of multipurpose room for music, computers, video teleconferencing, and sometimes Gwich' in Studies.

One of the local villagers is an infamous guitar and fiddle player, he hosts a music camp each school year. I'm hoping to play my bass guitar with him, as I'm told no one in the village plays bass in his ensemble.
With a huge variety of books, more are being shipped in each year. Anybody want to volunteer for a librarian position?

Mailing Address

Finally, we have a few options for mailing addresses.

In Fairbanks, anything work related, that doesn't need to be shipped all the way to the village can be sent to this PO Box. Gretchen will check the two weeks a month she's in Fairbanks.

PO Box 75060
Fairbanks, AK 99707

In Arctic Village we have a PO Box for personal mail.

PO Box 22005
Arctic Village, AK 99722

Lastly, anything for the school (supplies, games, etc) can be sent to this address.

Arctic Village School
305 Mountain Street
Arctic Village, AK 99722



Thursday, August 12, 2010

Washington comes to Arctic Village!

8/12/10
Arctic Village is located within ANWR (Arctic National Wildlife Refuge) and the people here have been active proponents to preserve the land and maintain its status as a refuge. Today the assistant to the Secretary of the Interior, the head of Fish and Game for the Nation, the head of Fish and Game in Alaska and a few other official people came to the village to speak to the people about their thoughts on drilling in ANWR. The Secretary of the Interior himself was supposed to come, but was not able to because he is down in Louisiana helping deal with the oil spill still.

You have probably heard debates about drilling ANWR in the news, but being here in ANWR it takes on an all new meaning. Sitting in a room of village elders who have lived their entire lives by hunting the land and relying upon the bounty of the land, it is no wonder they are fighting to keep the land preserved. One elder wisely said there may come a time when we have to drill, when the nation is in crises and we have to access the oil in this region, but to destroy this place just to keep oil prices down is wrong. Generations of Gwich'in people have lived on this land, it is their land and in their words "we must keep it as the Maker made it."

Sarah James, featured in the video clips on this site, lives in Arctic Village and is a very active spokesperson for the Gwich'in people on behalf of preserving ANWR.

Remembering our Dear Jasper

Jasper, always the photogenic one; these are the last two photos I took of him.

It has been very difficult adjusting to life without Jasper. You do not realize what an integral part of your life a pet is until they are no longer there. While we were at the school celebrating Sam's birthday the dogs got out. A neighbor claimed that the dogs killed his chickens and so he shot Jasper. He did not come to warn us and we did not even know him or that he had chickens. It was a rude awakening to how some people approach things in life. The man wasn't even a native, but resident of the village. We are very frustrated by this act, and confused why our dog was shot on the public road, and not even on his property. Many from the village have apologized that this happened, but it is still a very hard thing to deal with. A couple of villagers have even offered us their own puppies, but nothing could fill the void that Jasper left us on Tuesday.

Jasper was an amazing dog. We got him as a young pup, 10 weeks old, from a kennel in Willow, Alaska. He was my true companion during the 15 months Sam was deployed. Trying to exercise him enough as a puppy made me become a runner. Jasper was the reason I ran my first marathon. He could run 20+ miles with me and come home still ready to play. Jasper was a very smart, affectionate and truly beloved dog. Jack is now a dog without a pack. He walks around looking for Jasper, looking for someone to follow. Jasper was the brains and Jack the brawn. They made a great team and we know Jack is grieving as much as we are.

-Gretchen

We continue to attempt to move on, but have decided not to live in our original cabin. All our possessions have been stored in the old school housing area, while we're sleeping on the floor of Sam's classroom in the new school, Jack by our side. I've given the ultimatum we need a new place to live, only time will tell what is provided for us. Despite only being there for two days it already holds poor memories. We will return often though since I buried Jasper in a nice alpine tundra pasture a short distance from the cabin. I have already learned the loss of Jasper was not the fault of Arctic Village, but a few bad seeds. We've already spent time talking with several Village Elders that have a wealth of knowledge and experience to share with anyone that will listen. Even today the secrets of this awesome place were revealed as several dignified government officials with the Department of Interior flew in to listen to Elders give testimonies against drilling in ANWR and climate change in general. Still, morale is at an all time low and I'm struggling to find that motivation that originally brought me here. Despite the consequences of leaving, its a real thing in my mind.

-Sam

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Sam's Birthday in Arctic Village School


We sat down with some of the other teachers for a delicious dinner of salad and pasta.

The cake mix and candles came in the mail, so Gretchen was able to bake a cake.
Sam blowing out the candles!
After dinner we played bingo! Bingo is the big game around town. The youth center announces the numbers over radios and every can join in and play from home. Sam won the second round!

Deploying to Arctic Village

After weeks of moving it was finally time to head North.

We drove the truck to Fairbanks, spent the evening with the Lewellyn's and flew out Monday afternoon to Arctic Village.

Leaving the big city of Fairbanks.

Our flight had a quick stop in Fort Yukon to drop off one passenger. This Village is located on the Yukon River. My district, Yukon Flats School District, is headquartered in Fort Yukon.

I believe the population is about 600 people, over 4 times bigger than Arctic Village.

We flew on a "Navajo" aircraft, normally seating about 7, this time full of our junk.

No, they didnt let me fly- but I did ride in the co-pilot seat.
Approaching Arctic Village, nestled in the Brooks mountain range with the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge to the North.
The biggest building in town, seen with a red roof in the picture is the school.
Settling into our cabin we were amazed to find Luther's Small Catechism.
This is the dog corner, puppies tired from travels.
At the rear of the cabin is the door to a unheated storage room with chest freezer and other various items.
The kitchen.
Sink and front door. No running water, we fill the 5 gallon jugs at the washateria located near the school.
Our queen size bed.
Gretchen unloading boxes. About 2/3 of our belongings have arrived so far via mail service. The truck belongs to the school.
Here is our beautiful cabin.