Almost MacGonagall Pass

Preface: I did not make it all the way to MacGonagall Pass.  I had originally intended on hiking to the pass, but due to inclement weather and time we did not make it.

Unit 20 is a thin slice of backcountry that starts at the McKinley Bar River, just south of Wonder Lake, and extends all the way to the Muldrow Glacier.  It is the original and current informal climbers trail to routes on the north side of Denali.  

The journey begins with a bus ride along the park road, nearly five hours and 85 miles later, ending at Wonder Lake.  This would serve as day three of our eleven day trip.  Were I to do this trip casually by itself, I would probably spend the night at Wonder Lake, then get an early start on the trail the next morning.  Riding the bus for five hours is more taxing then hiking for ten, to me at least.  I'm exhausted when I get off that bus.  Warm dusty days are no different from damp dreary days- I'm not usually ready to launch into an immediate trek stumbling off the green bus.

Whenever you do decide to start your trek, walk about 3/4 of a mile back up the park road, then make a right onto the McKinley Bar Trail.  This "family trail" winds about 2.5 miles mostly downhill to the McKinley Bar River.  

Upon mentioning traveling in this unit, the Rangers eyes grew wide and wearied.  Justly so, the Bar River can be treacherous to cross.  She was quickly reassured to hear we planned to use packrafts.  They generally talk most travelers out of this unit that haven't planned accordingly, or have avid experience crossing braided glacial rivers.  

On the way out, we crossed the river in the widest spot, being almost over a mile wide here.  Looking across the river, the tundra slowly rises in the distance.  A rounded hill, named Turtle Hill, sits just upstream from where the trail intersects with the river.  This is a good landmark to target in the distance.  In total, our crossing going out resulted in about 8-10 ankle deep crossings, 4 knee-thigh deep crossings, and 1 main channel crossing which we inflated packrafts and ferried across.   

Once on the far shore, we enjoyed the benefits of our friend, the sun.  Drying out gear, changing into dry clothes, and cooking dinner.  By the time dinner was done it was about 8pm.  I planned to walk for about an hour, then camp, but the tussocks had different plans for me...

I've read numerous reports about an informal climbers trail heading south from the bar river, we didn't find it until reaching Turtle Hill.  Thus, we spent over two hours hurdling our self from tussock to tussock trying to climb uphill- it was exhausting.  My only advice is be prepared for the same.  This is one place I wish the park service would suck it up and establish a trail.  The informal climbers trail is actually a historic trail, having been used by many of the pioneers of Denali.  It could be a treasured landmark, established accordingly, as much of it already exists, then maintained seasonly by experienced backcountry backpackers and climbers wishing to use the traditional routes to the mountain- instead of the more contemporary method of approach via fixed wing aircraft.  

After stumbling between tussocks while swatting millions of flies swarming up from below- we found a nice clear spot to camp.  This was probably the first and only piece of flat tundra, until Turtle Hill, able to host a tent.  Sunrise came early and brought a swollen hot sun to the east and a brilliant Denali to the south west.  Each equally filling our tent doors on either side at 7am.

Above tree line, nearly suspended above the tussocks, our route is visible from Wonder Lake. 

The only thing I hate more than mosquito head nets is mosquitos... 

We would later hear Rangers and bus drivers describing the past 36 hours as the past views of Denali in five years.  It was certainly the closest we had ever been to this awesome mountain.  I have no problem lingering over a long breakfast when you have views like this.  

Denali view, tent sold separately.  

 Most photogenic fireweed in Alaska

I don't really have an ethical stance on leaving gear stashed in the backcountry.  Normally, I would probably say carry it because you don't know when you'll need it.  But, in the moment, we said screw it, leave it.  Atop Turtle Hill we decided to stash our packrafting gear behind this large lone rock.  Dropping paddles, dry bags, PFD's, and boats saved about 8-10lbs in our packs.  It doesn't sound like much, but it sure felt great.  In my opinion, the gear was scentless, so there was no risk of animals bothering it.  I don't think anyone had been in unit 20 lately, so we weren't concerned about it being tampered with or inhibiting someone else's experience.  And two days later, it was still there.

Several miles back into the valley above Cache Creek, we came upon this small beaver pond.  One lonely beaver was continually making laps around this swimming pool sized pond.  His small muddy lodge on the far side, he kept swimming figure eight shaped loops around the pond, ever so often slapping his tail and diving under the water.

The highlights of our hike can be seen in this quick little video.

When the weather turned soggy, so did our aspirations of achieving the pass.  We camped about four miles from the actual pass.  Continuing would have meant descending from a nice knoll we camped upon, to travel back into the Cache Creek valley and ascend at least another two thousand feet.  The return hike took us about eight hours to hike 12 miles back to Wonder Lake.  On the return trip across the Bar River we crossed about a mile further up river.  The river here was much narrower and had just four main channels which we ferried across with our packrafts.  I made the mistake of thinking the third of four crossings wasn't dangerous, and attempted to walk across.  Making it midway across my feet quickly were flushed out from beneath me in chest deep frigid water.  I was able to lunge for my boat washing briefly downriver before my feet caught rock again and I could flop onshore.  Lesson learned, if the packraft is inflated, and you don't know the rivers depth, just use the boat.

This three day hike into unit 20 wetted my appetite.  I'm not sure how soon I'll be back, but I will be back.  Maybe a trek and climb will be in the future...

Sanctuary River Packraft

Mountains, rivers, wild animals, beautiful flowers, blue skies, and more abound on our 15 mile hike and 14 mile float in Denali National Park.  Sure to become a classic, if not already- this two day excursion is a perfect hike/packraft for the beginner while providing enough scenery and variables for the seasoned adventurer.  While searching for trips to fill our 11 days in the park, I came across multiple hikes surrounding the same float down the Sanctuary River.  Whether coming from the north, south, east or west- the Sanctuary River provides countless approaches for the same great float.  I'm sure my route wasn't new, but I did not find any other posts discussing it. 

Despite having lived in Alaska for over six years, I have little experience in the Denali backcountry.  This is largely due to being intimidated by strict procedures, hordes of tourists, and distance from my old home in Anchorage.  Since relocating to Fairbanks, the park is now less than two hours away.  

Here's the "procedure":  

First, check in at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC).  Sit through a thirty minute DVD from the 1980's.  Listen to a fifteen minute lecture from the Rangers on how to use a bear barrel.  Spend a few more minutes going over your route and itinerary with another Ranger in order to get your free backcountry pass.  The park is broken up into 60 some land units.  Each unit has a quota for backpackers per night allowed to camp within that area.  It's important to be flexible, and come with a backup plan if your first choice units are full.  

Next, go to the Wilderness Information Center (WIC) near the BIC.  Pay $34 for a camper bus pass, allowing unlimited access to the national park via the park road.  Personal vehicles are not allowed within the park, so traveling on the contracted bus lines is the only way to get around.  There were only four camper busses a day entering the park (the online schedule is incorrect showing many more).  Despite being done and ready to go by 10:30am, we had to wait until 2pm to catch our camper bus.  Tourists buses leave every 20-30 minutes, but only the camper buses are available to hikers and campers entering the park.  Once inside the park, nearly any green bus with room will pick up a hiker or camper and transport them- but your initial entrance must be via a camper bus.  

So we got our pass, bought our ticket, killed some time, and finally just after 2pm were on our way into the park.  After sweet talking the bus driver, she allowed for a quick stop to cache some extra food at Sanctuary River campground, before continuing on to our drop off point at Sable Pass (eleven days of food weighed roughly 40lbs, plus a few more pounds for each empty bear barrel).  Most of the camper bus drivers are very experienced toting around backpackers.  I told the driver we wanted to get off at Sable Pass and she knew right were to stop.  On the return trip from Wonder Lake, a week later, I heard the bus driver giving loads of advice to several backpackers about drop off points, camping spots, and a variety of other beta.  Its worth telling them what you want, then asking their advice, it can only enhance your experience in the park.

Once disembarking from the bus, a trail is clearly visible on the south side of the park road, just before the Sable Pass closure takes effect.  It was about two miles through low scrub and shrub to the Teklanika river bed.  The closure area is to the west, but well away from the social trail to the river.  Denali National Park has few established (or published) trails.  At the BIC, you will hear time and time again "there are no trails in the backcountry."  This is only partially true.  Yes, there are no official trails with blazed markers or published on maps- but there are social trails, animal trails, game trails, climber trails, and hiker trails leading every which way.  These trails can make for quicker traveling when they head in the direction you want to go- the key fact being you want to go that route.  Despite the presence of a trail, it is still essential to carry a map, compass, and know how to use them.  Terrain association is vital for making good navigational decisions using available trails and topography.

Caribou that thinks it's a Dall Sheep 

Once on the wide braided Teklanika River, the walking is fast and easy.  Traveling on the many river beds is the ideal way to go in Denali.  Heading almost due south, the rocky ridge of Cathedral Mountain looms in the distance.  On the sandy river bed we saw a lot of Caribou, Wolf, and Bear tracks.  Being prepared to cross a river is essential for travel in Denali.  We carried trekking poles, two each, for support hopping and walking across rivers.

  

As the end of the river valley drew closer, the many glaciers serving as the source of the river became visible.  The pass I had decided to take was obvious to me on the map, on foot it looked a little different.  The recommended route by the rangers was via Calico Creek.  This pass would have taken us off the Teklanika River much sooner, and dropped us into the Sanctuary valley much later.  I don't believe the pass I opted for has a name, but it is opposite Refuge Valley.  As we hiked further into the gorge the route became clearer.  From the mouth of the gorge three routes were possible, but only one was the correct way.  To the left, a low lying ramp rose quickly and seemed to head towards the pass.  This would later seem to have many abrupt drop offs or cliffed our ravines.  To the right another low lying grassy ramp began, then twisted to the right side of the valley.  This ended up cutting away from the main way up to the pass, and heading to a further back hanging valley with glacier.  Dead center was a raging creek.  Basing my decision off the map, and from standing in the mouth of the gorge, I chose the right side.  This choice was partially correct in that it provided a nice camping spot for the first night, but it wasn't the correct way to the pass- neither was the left.  After camping the first night we down climbed back to the floor of the gorge, then crossed the creek.  The correct route was to start dead center, follow the creek through the gorge past both grassy ramps on either side, then, a small scree slope will take shape around a slight bend in the creek.  After scrambling up this scree slope an even gentler grass ramp emerged, leading all the way to the pass.

Gretchen heading up the right side grassy ramp to our campsite.

Shadows climbing the scree field, gorge center, leading to the pass. 

 Looking up towards the pass from midway up the center grassy slope.

Follow the goat trails to the top. 

Gretchen nearly to the top of the pass.  Grassy slopes turned to small compact scree. 

The route into Refuge Valley was at first daunting from atop the pass.  A small snow cornice remained, which we had to divert around.  My first concern was the snow or ice was still part of the scree, making things slippery to down climb.  Luckily, the snow was only at the extreme top.  I estimate the slope angle at the top of the pass was probably 45 to 50 degrees.  Traversing to the lookers right of the pass the angle became a little less severe, and lessened quickly as we descended.  The scree and mud also became looser as we descended, turning each step into a graceful slide or standing glissade down the mountain.

Refuge Valley was as spectacular as I imagined.  Deep ravines dropped down from jutted peaks.  Snow still lingered in some of the deepest and steepest chutes.  The base of each clifflike mountain was vibrant green tundra.  Several of the ravines creeks had waterfalls tumbling down them.  We sat half way down the valley.  Resting by a majestic kettle pond reflecting a nearby rocky mountain.  Munching on snacks and enjoying the warmth of the sun.

Around 3pm we inflated our packrafts.  This was probably a little early, resulting in a lot of butt scooting on the thinner sections of the river.  In the future I would walk down river, putting in at the spot where nearly three small valley tributaries intersect with a main branch.  This location was clearly distinguishable by a variety of stream colors combining together, some rich glacial grays, another clear from snowmelt.  Up river multiple braids made for tricky navigating,  a couple places required hopping out and pulling the boat through shallow areas.  Starting at the main branch, it was clear sailing all the way downriver to the campground.  Total float time from high up river in Refuge Valley was about four hours.  I would rate the river a Class 1, or maybe PR 1-2, but I'm not one for assigning ratings to anything, so don't take my word for it.  It was generally just "splashy."  The only real hard part was reading the river to keep the pace up, navigating back and forth between cut banks where the current was strongest.  There were several "wave trains" that quickened the current and added some fun.  The weather was super sunny as we started floating, but after several hours the sun creeped lower in the sky.  Paddling in rain gear was fine with water shoes, I wouldn't necessarily recommend dry suits- though on a damp cold day, they would be nice.

This video is a brief glimpse of our adventure.  It's mostly footage from the trail, we got so excited to finally be in our boats, we only took a few photographs and video shots.

Remaining Days of Summer

Well, I guess its official now- I will be starting a new job August 13th.  About a month ago Gretchen very encouragingly suggested I apply for a vacant position in the Fairbanks North Star Borough School District.  The posting was for a 7/8th grade language arts and social sciences position.  What struck me was the third bullet listed as a must for the position: cross country skiing.  I wondered if a place truly existed where cross country skiing was equally as important as core subjects.  So I looked up this "Watershed School."  After quickly perusing the website my interests were perked- so I read nearly the whole website in its entirety, then applied for the job.

Watershed School is a charter school, though still considered a public school residing within the borough school district.  Students from Kindergarten to 8th grade can apply to attend.  I look forward to learning more each and every day I teach there.  The school has been around about four years, most of the original teachers are still there (from what I heard).  The focus of activity is on getting out of the classroom, learning in the outdoors, learning about the community by becoming a part of the community.  Needless to say, I'm as nervous as I am excited about this new journey.

So, what am I going to do with the rest of my summer...  Well, I've spent the last two days constructing the awesomest shelves ever in our garage.  All my "gear" now has a home with plenty of room to spare.  I have a ceiling fan I'm not looking forward to hanging.  Almost 100ft of timbers to landscape with.  And still plenty of unpacking to do.

But, we're off to the wilderness, as that is where I enjoy spending my time.  Plans are still being formulated, but they will involve a packraft, a backpack, and two sets of mountain ranges (the Alaska Range and the Wrangell-St Elias),

Grandfather Mountain, North Carolina

The physical pinnacle of our visit to North Carolina was by far the hike up and over Grandfather Mountain.

In 2003 I visited this area while working for Geometrics GPS.  As one of my first "business trips" I vividly remember nearly every day spending long hours lugging survey equipment to various locations around the western corner of North Carolina.

For this high adventure, we chose to hike Grandfather Mountain up and over the multiple summits from the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Check out my highlight reel...

Picking Wild Berries

While visiting my sister Maggi in Western North Carolina, we were invited to pick wild blackberries.  After a wonderful breakfast with Travis's parents, we set out into the hills behind their quaint home, among hundreds of thousands of christmas trees, to seek out tasty wild berries.

East Coast Tour

Just a quick update- Gretchen and I are over midway through our "2012 East Coast Tour."  Its been great catching up with old friends and visiting family while attempting to survive record breaking heat.  Visits include Delaware, Fredericksburg and Richmond, Virginia, and finally Jefferson, North Carolina.

A lot of my photographs of the trip thus far can be found on Facebook.

Steamin' Days at Auburn Heights

New things have come to Delaware in the 12 years since I have lived there!  My parents are now volunteers at Delaware's newest state park -Auburn Heights.  They have actually been volunteering there for a few years, but this was the first chance Sam and I have gotten to go check out Auburn Heights.

Auburn Heights is a Victorian Mansion owned by the Marshall Family and later donated to the state as a State Park. If you go to check out the house, you just may get to go on a guided tour with my Mom.  All of the volunteers wear period dress from the early 1900's, but the day we were there since the heat index was above a hundred and the house does not have AC everyone was opting for the coolest clothing possible!

Inside the house and museum are many antiques.  Since the house was lived in until the 1990's everything was left in place and did not need to be recreated.  The original furniture was all still in the house being used.

On the property there is a train track and a "toy" train that people can actually ride.

Driving the Stanley Coach is Tom Marshall, who grew up on the property and can tell you all of it's history first hand.  He also shared with us that he has visited Alaska! 

The Stanley Coach is the largest steam powered vehicle Stanley made and one of only a few still in existence.

Here is my Dad driving the 1916 Rauch and Lang Electric car.  Since many of the parts of this car are wooden, restoration has taken some woodworking skill.  My Dad rebuilt casing for the battery compartment, the rear panels, and many other detail pieces in the car.  My Dad also showed us a wooden steering wheel he recently completed for one of the Stanley Steam Cars.  It is incredible how many pieces on the early vehicles were handcrafted wood.

Here we all are in the car.  It is quite small and two people have to face backward.  The car can go about 30 mile on a charge, more if you can coast for a bit.

There is no gas required, just a bunch of battery power!

~GLC

Out With The Old, In With The?

I've decided to retire the old blog banner.  I'm not one of those people resistant to change, but I'm also not one of those people who constantly seeks change.  I like to try new things, but I like to stick with what I like.  I also believe in benchmarks and commemorating change.  The new banner will be a trademark of recent changes.

Lest we not forget, here's the old banner.

 Happy reading!  

~Sam

Russian Food

If you were asked what is Russian food, what would your answer be?  Never having been to Russia, I would probably give a blank stare, then say "Vodka."

Obviously, Vodka is not a food.  It is made from potatoes, right?  So my next response would have been potatoes.  Then I would think about Russian salad dressing, isn't it red?  Though I always wondered, since its red like ketchup, but doesn't taste like ketchup.

This week I had the opportunity to eat Russian food.  If you are ever in the Copper River Valley, south of Kenny Lake, make sure you visit the Tonsina River Lodge.  Recently the establishment was purchased by a Russian family.  The menu features some delicious traditional Russian and Siberian dishes.  Around mile 80 on the Richardson Highway you will find the Tonsina River Lodge nestled alongside the Tonsina River.  From the highway, it doesn't look like much, as most Alaskan highway roadhouses don't appeal to everyones taste from the outside.

Pulling off the highway there are several visible structures on the property.  A large one story trailer style dormitory, littered with oversized trucks and summer construction vehicles parked out front.  The main lodge is a derelict run down three story building.  Most of the windows appear broken out, vegetation snaking up the sides.  The restaurant is built into a long building adorned with signs advertising liquor and Russian food.

Coming through the arctic entry screen door and into the main bar room feels as if entering a rustic roadhouse.  I was waiting to see scoundrels and rascals hanging from the bar, staring into me as I entered.  Instead, the music didn't stop, and no one stared me down .  The far side of the establishment was partitioned and decorated differently.  Hardwood tables line both walls of the main dining room.  Framed photographs of Czars hang from the walls intermingled with birch bark crafts and a typical Alaskan motif.

Over the course of two nights we tried four different entrees.

Machanka, a skillet of roast beef, smoked sausage, and diced ham atop chopped potatoes.  A nice tomato sauce mixed throughout and bound together with cheese.  My (and our) personal favorite.

Blinchiki, crepe like burritos filled with a variety of meats, diced vegetables, and an egg like substance.

Shashluki, simply chunks of beef on a skewer with onions.

Cheburki, a flattened chicken breast, lemon sautéed, then baked inside a pie crust style croissant.

You don't have to take my word for it.  If you pass mile 80 and the Tonsina River Lodge, stop for some good food, the best around!  

Second Year Photo Montage

This is a montage of several photographs from my second year teaching 5th - 12th grade in Arctic Village, Alaska.  The soundtrack is by the David Crowder Band. 

Wainwright to Barrow

For the first time I got to fly across the slope in the summer.  The majority of my travel on the North Slope has been during the winter months when it is cold and dark.  Summer in Barrow means 24-7 sunlight.  It truly never gets dark for 84 days!  Coming from Fairbanks at 75 degrees, 36 degrees in Barrow felt quite cold, but the endless daylight was incredible.

Off to work

On my way from Wainwright (a village west of Barrow along the coast) to Barrow we flew over the pack ice and got to see the Arctic Ocean.

As we flew out over the ice the Era pilot told us to look along the cracks of the ice for polar bears waiting on seals to surface.  I looked really hard, but how exactly do you spot white on white?

 The Arctic Ocean is incredibly beautiful, vast and still.  Because of the ice there are not large waves like you see in the Pacific or Atlantic.  As far as the eye can see there is calm.

 From the air, the ice creates a stark contrast of mosaic patterns as far as the eye can see.

 I like the areas where the differences in ice thickness creates greens and blues.  Even from the air you can get a sense of the texture of the ice.

Like cloud watching, I tried to look for shapes in the ice and imagined quite a few creatures.

Halfway between Wainwright and Barrow we spotted a whale!  This photo from my IPod really doesn't do it justice.  The pilot actually looped back and dropped down low so that we could get a better view, but the whale dove down disappearing back into the ocean.

While I was in Wainwright they were celebrating the last of the whaling boats returning to the village.  It had been a good season of whaling.  The 10 or 11 crews that went out took 5 or 6 whales.  Muktuk for everyone!

Moving

Does anyone really like moving?  I don't mean settling into a new community and learning exciting new things about the place you now live.  I mean boxing up your possessions.  Lugging around all your junk.  Worrying what will break, what won't survive the move, and what will be lost forever.  

The only thing worse than moving once is moving twice, in the same instance.  We first had to move from Arctic Village to Fairbanks.  This moved required mailing six boxes through the postal service, then, trying to fit everything else on the small Cessna airplane.

 Gretchen looks at the single truckload she's survived off of in Arctic Village for two years...

Then, we had to move all our belongings from Anchorage, out of storage, and 400 miles north to Fairbanks. This stage required flying the afternoon Alaska Airlines flight.  Renting a U-haul.  Then coercing our friends with beer and burgers to help unload the tight storage garage and reload an even tighter 26 foot U-haul.  Finally, I drove the u-haul through the Alaska Range and north to Fairbanks.

  Ironically, our u-haul was decorated with Delaware, Gretchen's home state...

The process has taught me that I need to stay put for a while.  As we are still in the closing process, stay tuned for photos of the new house- or I might just make you wait in anticipation until booking your own plane ticket to see Fairbanks for yourself.

Mount Rainier Documentary

Not exactly a feature length film, but here's a quick glimpse of our recent trip climbing Mount Rainier, in Rainier National Park, Washington.